Fake Dirt

That's what I call it. It's actually rock that has been crushed into small gravel and sand. A layer of this is then spread on the trail, to a thickness of about 12 inches. This is then graded to provide drainage, and finally it is rolled with an compressor. It doesn't seem to have any cement in it, but the final product is very concrete-like. This is what the Camino has become in Galicia.

I believe it is one of the results of too many pilgrims. With too many feet, the natural paths of Spain become mud bogs. We saw this in several spots as we approached Santiago in April, from the south. Not only does the mud become a problem for pilgrims, but also a mess for the coffee shops and refuges.

In response to complaints from all parties involved, the changes have been made. It is no longer necessary to look for yellow arrows. Just follow the gray path. When you come to a fork in the trail, the one with the "fake dirt" will always be the correct choice. I understand the changes. And if the weather was like November of 2014 (I remember the forecast using the word "torrential" that week) I'm sure I would appreciate the graded and compacted trails, with places for all the water to go.

Today it seemed artificial, like there was a barrier between me and the earth.

It was still a beautiful walk, with corn harvest in full swing. I met Matt and Tom from the UK. They told me of a drinking game they played with their mates right after the Cowboy Bar (in El Gonzo). One of the young ladies bought a bottle of wine for the trail. Every time they saw a yellow arrow, everyone had to take a swig. The bottle did not last the 7 km remaining in the day!

I'm on Santa Marina tonight, two days of about 22 km each from Muxia. My body is feeling amazingly well after almost 500 km.

 Somebody's former treasure.

 "Follow the yellow (gray) brick (fake dirt) road (path).

 This picture is included to fuel Ruth's "soil envy".

It's little dry here.

Three days, another 60-ish km

It's been 3 days since I've updated the blog. No internet last evening, and simply too tired the night before.

To Albergue Rural Astrar. This refuge is just outside Santa Irene, sort of in the middle of nowhere. The owner has menus from nearby cafes and will call orders in, then goes to pick them up! So not a bad option if you don't have food with you. Jose and I shared a few groceries with each other and made a decent meal.

To Monte de Gozo (only 5 km from the Santiago cathedral). Maybe because it was my shortest day in over a week, but the climb up to Monte de Gozo seemed easier than ever. This was my 4th entrance into Santiago from the east. The highly praised Bar Chispa is closed on Monday, so I had to go to the fancier restaurant up the road. The poorest plate of ribs I've ever had. There were plenty of them, and lots of french fries too, so more than enough calories. I just wish the cooks would watch a few PBS cooking shows. Or maybe the local customers really do prefer flavorless fare. I don't know.

To Negreira. I walked through Santiago this morning. I arrived at the pilgrim office just as they opened at 8 am, got a stamp on my credential and carried on. I don't need another Compostela, five is enough. The weather continues to be absolutely perfect. I ran into Marco, Alexandra, and Cornelio near the cathedral, and then again just before arriving in Negreira. They had been in the cathedral square with about 15 of the other Primitivo group yesterday afternoon. I was sorry to have missed it.

There were a surprising number of folks on the road today. In 2014 when we walked today's stage we only saw a handful of others. It was November then, and it was raining. So much rain! Those two things change everything.

A few pictures from the last three days:

 Someone made a poor choice of footwear.

 They had graded this in 2012 when we crossed it. Still not completed.

 Welcome to the Camino Frances.

 My home for one night.

 Not quite yet.

 Now.

 Moon over the cathedral this morning.

 I carried a few mixed nuts all the way from Leon.

Remember this from a 2014 post? A lot more water flowing that fall.

To Boente

The Primitivo Camino joins the Camino Frances in Melide. I got there today just as the slower walkers from Palas de Rei were passing through. It's going be rare to be out of sight of other pilgrims for the next couple days.

One of the things I love about Camino is how it reveals that humans from all over the world experience such similar hardships. The wife of a man from Canada has died, and he says to me "You can't believe the number of tears a body can produce". The young lady from Denmark wonders what to do with her life after her only sister is killed in an automobile accident. The recently retired teacher from Cordaba, Spain explains how difficult the last few years have been because of....(parents are different now, administration requirements, etc.). And these things are revealed to nearly total strangers, even to an "ugly American".

I've offered this quote before, and it is still true: "The Camino is God's dream for how people should be when they're with each other".

We also experience similar joys. Last evening I was part of 24 pilgrims sharing a late dinner. There were 15 countries represented. We didn't all agree on the Isreal/Palestine issue, or many other political, social, or religious debates. (We certainly did not agree on a proper pilgrim bedtime). But we laughed and ate and talked and remembered the last few days. I believe God was pleased.

 Trailside breakfast: pear, cheese, cookies.

 Galician landscape. Much smaller hills than a few days ago.

 I love the way the Eucalyptus trees shed their bark.

 A good crop.

A local out for an evening ride.

Into and Out of Lugo

Another 50+ km in two days, 31 into Lugo yesterday, and 26 to Ponte Ferreira today.

Lugo was surprisingly big, I would guess about the size of Santiago, but much less touristy. The muni albergue there was full last night. The kitchen was such a mess this morning, I was ashamed to be part of this pilgrim pod. I thought I would get ahead of most of them today, but that didn't happen. They continued to gradually show up all afternoon. They are a fun group, just a high percentage of young folks, and probably a bit too much alcohol last night.

More little farms. More hills, but smaller now. More pilgrims, as we are now within the 100 km barrier on the Primitivo route. And more asphalt. Today must have been 90% asphalt. Again, I'm not being critical of the route, I just want to be accurate.

I've tried to slow down, unsuccessfully. I'll have to find another path to walk after getting to Muxia. (I plan to continue there after Santiago).

To "A Fonsagrada" and "O Cadavo"

I'm combining two days. It's just easier that way. Also, these two days were nearly identical in every memorable way. We didn't enter or exit any big city. We didn't pass any grand geologic feature. We simply progressed 50-ish kilometers through beautiful countryside.

We did enter the province of Galicia, but the only noticeable difference is the shells on the trail markers now face the opposite direction (in Asturias the hinge faces the direction of travel, and in Galicia the fingers of the shell point toward Santiago). It's still green, and the hills are still high and steep. This is a difficult Camino. So far, I would say every day would match the toughest days on the entire Camino Frances, with difficult climbs and tricky downhill.

My body is asking for a rest. I'll try to talk myself into a short day tomorrow. We'll see. It's very warm here now, with highs in the mid 80s (F).

 Full moon over the church in Grandas de Salime as I left in the morning.

 Clouds pouring over the mountains in the distance, looked like snow.

 Second full moon picture.

 Traditional round storage building called a "palloza".

 I'm afraid the green-ness just doesn't come through in the pictures!

To Grandas de Salime

I wish I could tell about today. It was just wonderful. We climbed over a high ridge in the first hour, then steep downhill for a long stretch, and ended with 7 km back out of the canyon. See the pictures below.

Unfortunately, I feel like I need to tell a sad story about last evening. A local man attempted to molest two of the young women in our little Camino family. I will not give too many details because I don't want to reveal any identities. The two women were walking very late in the day about 30 minutes apart. There was a very small village of only 4 or 5 houses. As they passed by, he offered them water in his kitchen. After getting each of them in his house, he forced a kiss on them. They were both able to get away with no more physical contact.

I was in the albergue when they came in, understandably upset. We all urged them to call the police, which they did later that evening. The police took a detailed report, and I'm confident they can identify the man.

On the Camino, we do get a little over-confident about the kindness of the Spanish people. They are nearly 100% charitable toward pilgrims. Still, one of the ladies told me today that she never would have gone into his house alone, if she was thinking right. I do know at the end of a nearly 20 mile walk, the fatigue is not only in your legs, it is also in your mind. I've made several poor decisions at the end of a difficult day. I'm glad that nothing more happened to the women, and I was especially pleased that they called the police. We know the police in Spain take pilgrim safety very seriously.

The albergue here is very basic, but it does have everything you might want, including good internet. The town has a nice museum. It's closed on Monday. Today is Monday.

To Berducedo

It was a perfect day for the "Hospitales" route. First, it is named after the three pilgrim's hospitals that were along the trail in the mountains of today's stage, on the long stretch between villages, 1000 years ago.

I mentioned the Napoleon route yesterday. I haven't walked it, but I can be fairly confident the two are similar in distance and elevation. The Napoleon route is infamous because it is the first day for most pilgrims that begin in St. Jean Pied de Port, and deservedly so. Today's stage has some huge climbs that are followed by several more 'down and back up' sections, which makes it a little extra tough.

The middle part of the day was along the top of the highest ridge in the area, so the views were wonderful.

Several folks came in very late, there were barely enough beds in town. It seems like a good group of pilgrims. A good mix of young and old, probably a dozen countries, and at least 4 continents. Some folks on their first Camino and several "veterans". Everyone seems very friendly and helpful.

I am a Casa Marques tonight. It's simple but adequate. It doesn't have a refrigerator, so I had to fry my four eggs for supper. I had planned to boil them and take them on the trail (no food for the first 20 km tomorrow), but I don't like taking them if they aren't chilled. I have cookies and nuts.

Once again poor Wi-Fi. Pictures later.

 I tried to take a picture of a traffic sign before dawn, with the camera in flash mode. The fine mist looks like snow. It was so fine that I didn't even need rain gear.